Le Coste is a relatively new Barolo that Massimo Benevelli crafts from a little parcel a stone’s throw from his winery, the family home, and the adjacent trattoria where his sister concocts authentic renditions of local dishes. A charming contrast to the big, dense, tannic Barolos Monforte d’Alba is best known for, Le Coste is all about delicacy, finesse, and high-toned Nebbiolo fruit accented by perfumy floral notes. While Massimo’s Ravera and Mosconi bottlings strike a deeper register and should be cellared, this cru serves up all its nuances for our enjoyment right now and over the next several years. It would be perfectly at home next to a plate of his sister’s agnolotti, or perhaps a hearty braise at casa tua.

Descend into the Fantino brothers’ humble cellar beneath the village of Monforte d’Alba and the first thing you notice are the large, vertical Slavonian oak barrels, where, for a minimum of four years, Nebbiolo takes its time developing into deep and complex Barolo.
      At the other end of the cellar stand large stainless steel tanks in which Alessandro and Gian Natale age their more approachable and exuberant Barbera for a year and a half with the aim of preserving as much young charm, fragrant fruit, and bright acidity as possible.
      Depending on the vintage, the Fantinos’ Barbera can show a stronger side of this grape variety with robust concentration and flavors, or a lither and more refined side. The 2019 rendition embodies the latter with its elegant and versatile profile and notes of cherries, cranberries, and blood orange that pair as perfectly with pizza as with Chris Lee’s risotto with figs and prosciutto.

Click here for Chris Lee’s recipe.

Most of us are well accustomed to the magic of Piemonte’s diverse red wines, but it’s time we shine a deserved spotlight on the region’s real sleeper: Arneis, its native white grape, which thrives in the sandy soils of the Roero district. Arneis has enough luscious, peachy body to satisfy Chardonnay drinkers, along with the mouthwatering zip of a good Sauvignon Blanc. Then there is its Italian-ness—that almost bitter, vaguely almondy note that makes the crisp finish feel especially dry, in perfect anticipation of the next bite of your antipasto.
     Don’t sleep on this oh-so-satisfying example of Arneis made by the lovely Bodda family of Tenuta La Pergola.