Value of the Month
by Anthony Lynch
I’m willing to bet that most people have never tasted a Rosso Piceno: this Italian red comes from a region most have never heard of (Le Marche) and its starring grape variety, Montepulciano, is often conflated with a town in Tuscany by the same name—coincidentally home to its own wine appellation featuring not Montepulciano but Sangiovese, which plays a supporting role in our Rosso Piceno. Is that all confusing enough?
Let’s take a step back. Rosso Piceno does not fancy itself as one of Italy’s greatest or grandest wines. It serves a purpose similar to Piedmont’s Dolcetto, or France’s Côtes du Rhône: wines you can uncork—or in this case, unscrew—on a whim, without worrying about the company, the pairing, or the planetary alignment. Grown along the Adriatic coast of central Italy, it combines the deep color and wild berry fruit of Montepulciano with the brightness and earthy grip of Sangiovese. Its dark fruit is boldly mouth-filling, yet smooth and juicy, even crunchy when served with a slight chill, which I recommend. With only its second release, the Colleleva Rosso Piceno has already joined the ranks of the shop’s top pizza and BBQ bottles. Unscrew responsibly!
2023 Rosso Piceno
Italy | Le Marche
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