Three Chablis, From Petit To Premier
by Dustin Soiseth
The Petit Chablis from Roland Lavantureux is like a Bourgogne blanc from Antoine Jobard or Jean-Marc Roulot—a delicious, meticulously crafted wine that offers a taste of the magic found in the domaine’s more exclusive wines, with all the refreshing minerality and stoniness that is the hallmark of cool-climate Chardonnay grown on limestone. A sketch by da Vinci isn’t the Mona Lisa, but it still comes from the master’s hand.
This is usually my favorite wine in the Savary lineup, sitting as it does in a sweet spot between the Chablis AOC and premier cru bottlings. The 2022 is a touch softer and rounder than previous vintages, which is lovely when you crave the verve of a well-made Chablis, but with a bit more ripeness and fruit. There’s a splash of stone fruit to go along with the green apple and citrus notes, and a brisk yet feathery finish.
A full year in stainless steel, with just a brief layover in used barrels before bottling, creates a particularly pure, crystalline expression of the outstanding Butteaux vineyard, one unencumbered or unduly influenced by toast or char. The wine is nutty and complex, each swirl dense with chalky citrus notes, structure, and élan. It is a wine that you can slowly ponder if you so wish, but pondering is by no means a prerequisite for enjoyment.