by Dixon Brooke
Every Domaine Ostertag creation is a work of art, an individualistic expression of an iconoclastic vigneron’s vision executed from vine to bottle, accompanied by a beautiful and original label.
Arthur Ostertag has not disappointed with this fantastic new release of a long-standing KLWM favorite—always one of the greatest expressions of the Sylvaner grape in Alsace. Arthur told me that the small grape bunches had thick skins and less juice in 2021, which has given us a golden wine with ample concentration that remains fresh and stimulating. Its luscious aroma and lovely luminosity make for an image-breaking Sylvaner! I love a glass with an appetizer of smoked fish.
Arthur continues his experimentation with the Gewurztraminer grape with this fourth rendition of his skin-fermented white wine that is playfully accompanied by a comic-strip label series. Expect a coppery color, an incredibly complex aroma that includes strawberry, tomato, and sweet pepper, and a well-structured palate with a red wine tannin. You can get really creative with the food pairing possibilities with this bottling, although it also makes for an interesting apéritif solo.
This is the reference wine of the entire Ostertag lineup, from an isolated grand cru in northern Alsace that is also the site of a monastery. It is a deep and cerebral wine, a long ager, from a vineyard with a complex mix of soil types. There is a lot of concentration and depth, an impression of a wine solidly built, sure of itself, and serene, with many layers to explore and new discoveries lurking around every corner. This 2019 is ready to enjoy now if you are so inclined but will further develop beautifully in your cellar.