The Return of One of the Greats
by Clark Z. Terry
Grape harvests happen once a year...except when they don’t. It’s rare, and in 2022, no grapes were brought in to make Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe’s flagship Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau. In mid-August, with harvest nearly in sight, a violent hailstorm and tornado touched down on this iconic, stony plateau, leaving no fruit behind. Leaves were shredded and grapes destroyed in a storm more typical of the American Midwest than France’s Rhône Valley—the Brunier family, stewards of this land for six generations, had never experienced anything of this magnitude.
That’s all to say that it’s been a while since we’ve been able to talk about a new vintage of Vieux Télégraphe, and finally, with the arrival of the 2023, we’re thrilled to say that we can. Over the past decade, brothers Daniel and Frédéric have introduced their children, Edouard (Daniel’s son) and Nicolas and Manon (Frédéric’s son and daughter), to the domaine, each overseeing different facets of the family business. In anticipation of the arrival of the 2023 La Crau, I wrote to them to hear their impressions about the return of one of the greatest Châteauneuf-du-Papes. Here, Manon takes up the pen:
With 2023, we find ourselves in the presence of a vintage that “breathes,” one that is both classic and singular. It proves the power and resilience of the terroirs, and is characterized by a beautiful balance between acidity and maturity, freshness and richness. There’s a gentle veil of minerality, and the nose is expansive, making way for notes that are more spiced than fruity. The tannins have softened, yielding a mouthfeel that’s both supple and bold.
There is more to uncover in this wine. It is a Vieux Télégraphe that perfectly illustrates the unhurried richness of the La Crau terroir. It never gives us everything all at once, but instead reveals itself in small doses over time and with careful observation. It’s a vintage that can be compared to 2015 and 2020 for its ripeness and balance, but whose depth and structure suggest superior aging potential. This is a wine with a long life ahead of it.
2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”
France | Southern Rhône