To be honest, before opening this wine, I planned to tell you to tuck away Lionel’s deep, old-school Côte-Rôtie for the next decade or so. Then I dipped my nose into a glass and let out a great big sigh of Syrah-induced satisfaction, reveling in the exuberant, juicy dark fruit aromatics melding with earthy undertones of bitter cacao. Don’t get me wrong. In ten years you’ll be over the moon if you manage to keep your hands off. But I can’t in good faith recommend that you miss out on the freshness and purity of fruit awaiting you today. —MHB

Joining the ranks of celebrated Saint-Joseph domaines that have graced our shelves—Gonon, Trollat, Faury (to name a few)—is the young Bastien Jolivet. The bit of Vin de France he makes comes from a granite site of old-vine Syrah at the top of a steep hillside. Partially vinified with whole bunches, it’s then raised in neutral oak to allow its pure fruit qualities to shine. In the vineyard, work is done organically, and always by hand. Bastien is a vigneron through and through, preferring to toil in his vines more than anything else. The investment pays off in this fresh, stony, country-style rouge that’s not to be missed. —JA

In a 1998 newsletter, Kermit praised Saint-Joseph’s accessible charm: “It seems miraculous, a big, juicy, fleshy, flavorful Syrah that you don’t have to wait on, that you should not wait on.” Marsanne’s 2019 would be KL’s cup of tea, the kind of Saint-Jo to dig into right away: smoky, layered, lush, and laced with violet, bay leaf, and black olive. At table, its fine tannin and granite core marry well with indulgent snacks like duck pâté, or alongside pan-seared mains like garlicky lamb chops or steak au poivre. Though you needn’t wait to open, once you have, it would be foolish not to take your time with this one. —MHB