Introducing Benoît Cantin
Irancy
by Dixon Brooke
Irancy is one of the two great (greater and greater, I might add) northern Burgundian outposts for Pinot Noir, the other being Epineuil. These wine villages straddle Chablis, the northern bastion for Chardonnay, with Epineuil to the northeast and Irancy to the southwest, near the town of Auxerre. The small appellation of Irancy is composed of less than two hundred hectares of vines planted on a large, southern-facing amphitheater of clay and iron-rich Kimmeridgean limestone soils, where the Pinot ripens consistently well. Along with Sancerre, this village has historically kept the bistros of Paris well stocked with Pinot Noir for everyday drinking.
Seemingly untouched by the pomp and circumstance of much of the Côte d’Or farther south, this charming Burgundian town comprised of a handful of vigneron families continues to follow its daily rhythms that have been far less impacted by the passage of time. This certainly appears to be true in the Cantin cellars, where two generations of the family recently welcomed me on a cool late autumn day to taste through their production in barrel, tank, and bottle. The entire experience, punctuated by old vintages brought out at the end of the tasting along with a wooden board of tasty local specialties to munch on, felt like the Burgundy of yesteryear. The wines are decidedly old-school, offering a delightful stroll down memory lane. The Cantin family produces age-worthy Pinot Noir with depth, character, and soul, and we are excited to introduce them to you.
2019 Irancy
France | Burgundy
Medium ruby color, with aromas of sweet cherries and spices, roses, and a grind of the pepper mill. There is blood orange on the palate, soil tones, iron, and a stony backbone. The luscious character of this vintage is on full display in this deliciously approachable bottle with silky tannins, refreshing acidity, and soulful Burgundian country charm.
2018 Irancy “La Grande Côte”
France | Burgundy
Last May, some colleagues and I hoisted ourselves into the back of the Cantin family’s pick-up truck for what was a decidedly bumpy, but ultimately life-affirming ride around the appellation of Irancy. Bobbing atop the cargo bed with Benoît’s son Félicien as our guide, we took in the fresh air, and witnessed first hand the magnificence of this appellation. Irancy, which is planted mostly to Pinot Noir, happens to showcase the same Kimmeridgian limestone soils as Chablis. One of the more splendid lieux-dits we visited was a primely positioned parcel called La Grande Côte, which spreads across a steep, south-facing hillside and produces wines with ageability, structure, and complexity I didn’t expect from this nearly forgotten appellation of northern Burgundy.
Arriving back at the winery to taste through their lineup, Benoît, who is captain of the local hunting club, had prepared a spread of homemade boar pâté, alongside perfectly ripened Époisses and other hearty snacks. Recalling the views we’d just absorbed, I wasn’t surprised by how good Grande Côte was tasting. It was the most brambly of the bunch, vigorous, and gourmand with sour plum, fig and a touch of smoke. Featuring just a trace of Irancy’s claim to fame, the local César grape, the wine ages in barrel and can easily be cellared for an amount of time beyond what its price would suggest, that is to say, decades.
To visit the Cantin family in Irancy is to fall in love with them, their charm, their passion, and the contagious spirit they have for making great wines from a lesser-known appellation. Tradition runs deep at this winery that has been passed down from father to son since the mid 1800s. Ask Benoît’s father Bernard what he would have been if not a vigneron, and he says he never even considered the possibility! At 14 years old, he recalls, you would have found him pushing a wheelbarrow behind a horse plow, and he wouldn’t have it any other way.