Domaine Arretxea
by Anthony Lynch
It’s one of the most remote properties in our portfolio, and among the hardest to access. Arriving at Domaine Arretxea, tucked in France’s southwest corner twenty miles from the Atlantic coast just north of the Spanish border, feels like entering a completely different world—and in many ways, it is. This is the heart of French Pays Basque, and just a quick glance at road signs, architecture, or some of the locals, with their characteristic jet-black hair, signals you have entered a unique cultural enclave.
The same is true for the wine produced here. Among France’s smallest appellations, Irouléguy covers some 240 hectares of sloping vineyard land in the foothills of the Pyrenees. The cool, humid climate resulting from a combination of mountainous and oceanic influences lies in stark contrast to the Mediterranean grape-growing regions also found at this southerly latitude. Consequently, Irouléguy boasts its very own set of grape varieties: Gros and Petit Manseng along with Petit Courbu for the whites; Tannat and Cabernet Franc (which likely originates in Basque Country) for reds. Blended in small percentages, Cabernet Sauvignon is the only import, likely brought long ago by pilgrims on the route to Santiago de Compostela.
Irouléguy’s unparalleled combination of climate, grapes, and complex geology is responsible for some truly singular wines, without equal in France or anywhere else. If the area boasts an ancient history of winemaking, dating back to Roman times and veritably developed in the twelfth century by monks providing for passing pilgrims, one cannot speak of the modern era without mentioning Domaine Arretxea. Since their first harvest in 1993, Michel and Thérèse Riouspeyrous have risen to prominence as ardent defenders of Basque terroir as well as pioneering experts in biodynamic viticulture, which they began practicing in 1998. Now run by their sons, Iban and Teo, Arretxea remains one of France’s hidden gems. The few bottles they produce express this special corner of the world with style, precision, and lots of soul, along with the strong-willed character for which the Basque people are known. We are lucky to be able to offer a few cases of their exceptional cuvées.
2021 Irouléguy Blanc “Hegoxuri”
France | Southwest
Arretxea’s flagship white, blended from the three local white grapes and raised in a combination of demi-muids and foudres. Bone-dry and bracingly tart, with notes of lime, ginger, and salted caramel. Decant it to best enjoy it young; with time, its edginess will soften and develop into something truly spectacular.
2020 Irouléguy Rouge “Cuvée Haitza”
France | Southwest
One of France’s great vins de garde, Haitza is opaque, dense, deep, and noble. Wild black fruits on the nose, along with pepper, spice, and a kiss of oak. A full-throttle Tannat (with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon) to be treated like a great Bordeaux growth.
2020 Irouléguy Rouge “Burdin Harria”
France | Southwest
In Basque, the name means fire stone, a reference to the rare volcanic terroir called ophites in which the Tannat, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon are planted. Compare it to an old-vine Cornas from Clape or Allemand: lean, muscular, savory, and mineral-driven, with the potential to age and improve for many years.