Beauroy’s southeastern aspect gets ample morning sun but more moderate afternoon exposure, which explains the perfect balance. The wine is a lovely pale straw yellow, and the fresh, fruity aromatics are anchored by a deep, pleasing nuttiness. Each sip is dense and mineral, with a brisk, totally Chablisien finish.

This new addition to the Bruno Colin lineup is remarkably refreshing, with a pronounced flintiness and a steely minerality. Lots of herbs and lemon curd precede its dry, racy finish. It’s a mouthwatering, drink-me-now white Burgundy.

A small restaurant in Beaune long ago had a minimalist concept that I loved: two big communal tables, no menu, and no wine list. You showed up, and the chef, seated at the bar, would finish his glass of rouge and saunter off to the kitchen to cook whatever hunks of pork he happened to be offering that day and boil some potatoes. Dinner was just that, a massive portion of meat and potatoes served on a wooden slab, with a few lonely leaves of lettuce, perhaps to clear the conscience. The house rouge—bright, zippy, loads of fun—was none other than Bouvier’s En Montre Cul, priced so that you could order bottle after bottle, and such a pleasure to drink it guaranteed a good time. Looking back, the food wasn’t even that good, but it didn’t really matter. Sometimes the wine more than makes up for shortcomings in the kitchen.

An outstandingly sumptuous and approachable piece of work by Antoine Jobard, whose new reds continue to impress. The wine benefits from some air upon pulling the cork, and soon opens up to loads of red raspberry and cherry fruit with wet stone minerality underneath. Medium-bodied with wonderful poise and very fine tannins, it is utterly captivating and enjoyable now.