Piemontese Reds
by Jane Augustine
2019 Barbaresco “Vicenziana”
Italy | Piedmont
Time stands still in the tiny cellar of Silvio Giamello. He and his wife, Marina, are soft-spoken and discreet, but they will graciously invite you in to sample their minuscule production. Vicenziana is a gorgeous old-vine Barbaresco with an intoxicating perfume that rises from the glass. One of our most elegant and inviting Piemontese reds, it features delicate layers of black cherry, cracked pepper, and soft leather. Take your time with this wine; there’s so little of it produced that any occasion to enjoy a bottle should be relished.
2021 Monferrato Rosso
Italy | Piedmont
La Pergola’s Monferrato Rosso is a prime example of a value wine that overdelivers. It’s bold and tangy, brambly and vibrant, with earthy notes of rosemary and black licorice. If this sounds complex for a house red, it is. The Bodda family masters a variety of indigenous Piemontese varieties, many of which shine in this blend—think Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, and lesser-known varieties like Croatina and Bonarda. Each contributes to this unmistakably Italian, deliciously rustico red that you won’t be shy about serving to even your hard-to-impress guests.
2015 Barolo Riserva Bussia
“Cascina Dardi”
Italy | Piedmont
Even with eight years of age, this plush Barolo from the Bussia cru in Monforte d’Alba is as striking and youthful as it’s ever been. Hints of toasty tobacco, violet, and roasted fig will draw you in, while the bottling’s energy and vigor will hold your attention. Raised in large Slavonian oak casks, this is one of the grander, more assertive Baroli we import. It’s a Barolo lover’s dream for a summer barbecue, or a candidate for serious aging.