Introducing Bastien Jolivet
by Dixon Brooke
Kermit was one of the first American buyers to recognize the potential in the appellation of Saint-Joseph, the series of rolling granite hills on the west side of the Rhône River between Ampuis (Côte-Rôtie) and Tournon-sur-Rhône (Hermitage) planted to Syrah. I’m sure it was an aha moment for him back in the 1970s, realizing he could get hillside fruit, vinified by masters of the vine working outside the pressure of the spotlight, for a fraction of the price of the more famous growths noted above. That is what he set out to do, and the rest, as they say, is history. He unearthed “Saint Joe” treasures over the years such as Raymond Trollat, Joseph Panel, Gérard Chave, Pierre Gonon, and Philippe Faury, and we are still going strong.
Our latest discovery comes from the talented hand of young Bastien Jolivet, working his family’s vineyards in the small village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Saint-Joseph fans will know this as prime country, just north of the birthplace of the appellation in Mauves, and the site of Trollat’s old vineyard that formed the backbone of his wines for years and now those of the Gonon brothers. In the rare moments when Jolivet is not outdoors tending his vines, he wields a magic wand in the cellar with both his whites and his reds. Ah, a young man committed to the hard work that makes great wine, while also possessing the instinctive touch it takes to accompany his fruit into an elevated realm . . . a rare find indeed.
2022 Vin de France Blanc “Cuvée de Louis”
France | Northern Rhône
This beautiful blend of Roussanne and Viognier is grown at a high-altitude site in Lemps, in the mountains west of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Golden, luscious aroma and flavor, a delicious nectar infused with honeysuckle that invites you in at first sniff for a leisurely dip.
2022 Saint-Joseph Blanc “Clef de Sol”
France | Northern Rhône
Jolivet’s white Saint-Joseph is an entirely different animal, made almost exclusively from the beguiling Marsanne grape, which reaches its loftiest potential in the granite soils of this part of France. Round and generous on first blush and then wound up, energetic, and fine-grained on the finish, this thoroughbred wine is sculpted for the cellar but still provides a lot of immediate gratification. His 2018 was one of the highlights of my travels on the wine route last year.
2022 Vin de France Rouge “Cuvée de Louis”
France | Northern Rhône
Another high-flying wine from Lemps, this fresh and stony Syrah is the expression of a wild place without much human activity. Cool in the mouth, with a whiff of smoke and game, this soulful little country Syrah will do a jig with your pâtés and terrines.
2021 Saint-Joseph Rouge “L’Instinct”
France | Northern Rhône
A classic interpretation of this great terroir for Syrah, fermented whole-cluster and aged in the traditional larger cask of the region, the demi-muid, 2021 has the added bonus of coming from a classic throwback vintage with slightly cooler average temperatures. It is a real-deal northern Rhône roasted-slope Syrah that walks the tightrope perfectly between creamy fruit, meaty tannins, and fresh spine—another great one for the cellar if you can keep your hands off it!