Not long after settling in Saumur in the nineties, Thierry Germain started farming organically, and soon thereafter, he embraced biodynamics. It resonated with him that a holistic approach, with ethical and respectful practices in the vineyard and toward those who helped him work the land (animal and human), was crucial to making the best possible wines. Over the last three decades, by emphasizing single-vineyard expressions of the varieties he considers to be the greatest in the world—Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc—he’s proved his case. What makes his reds so special, for one, is perhaps the very thing that makes Cabernet Franc so polarizing: its vegetal side. The mere mention of the idea might scare you off! But Thierry harnesses this quality to an advantage, allowing the variety to balance its herbaceous tendency with a natural ripeness that reads more floral than fruity. His whites, in a similar vein, are pristine and vibrant, never rich yet still whole and inviting. Both his reds and whites can remain open for several days on the upswing—a sign of vitality and pedigree, qualities that allow for a single bottle to accompany multiple meals.
     In addition to the wine tasting experience, a visit to Thierry’s is a feast for the senses. Life radiates everywhere. Upon arriving last summer, we stopped to pet his robust plow horses who were having their shoes replaced, their thick tails curled with pride as they enjoyed the routine pampering. Later, while walking the vineyards, I appreciated the cushioned feel underfoot of the very soil those well-groomed workers had overturned so effortlessly. Happy horses, happy soil, I guess! Thierry suggested we lower our noses to some flowering vines to take in the aroma of their softly sweet, heady blossoms. Inviting us down a different path, he plucked two pieces of silex from the earth and knocked them together until they sparked, surprising us with a whole new scent, this one sharp and flinty.
     Back at the winery, after spiraling our way down a narrow staircase to his cellar carved out of tuffeau, we discovered a dimly lit labyrinth of barrels and foudres brimming with young wine. Drawing a bit of blanc with his pipette and transferring it to a glass, he held it up to admire its yellowish-green hue. “This is how you can tell we picked at the right time, by the color!” Intuition like this, his ability to observe and connect, is what’s come to define Thierry’s inspiring career.