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2024 Sancerre
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy
Sancerre is so beloved that writing about its irresistible pull almost feels redundant. But, in recent years, wines from this Loire Valley appellation have gotten even better and more terroir-focused, so it feels timely to revisit why the best Sancerres can be so alluring.
If you have heard us wax poetic about Chablis, you’ll know that this is largely because Chardonnay serves as a vessel for that appellation’s special Kimmeridgian soils. An hour and a half southwest, much of Sancerre stretches across this same limestone and Sauvignon Blanc also turns out to be spectacularly gifted at channeling its trademark minerality and the faintly marine essence of this ancient ocean bed. In the best Sancerres, like Reverdy’s, you taste these elements of the terroir more than any broad characteristics of the grape.
The Reverdys are one of the appellation’s essential winemaking families and they have thoroughly mastered elegant and delicious Sancerre. Its exquisite balance of fruit, minerality, and acidity make it an ideal candidate alongside all kinds of seafood—raw oysters and fish tacos come to mind immediately—but it would also pair beautifully with a tomato salad (or gazpacho), cucumber noodles, or another creation from your summer harvest.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2024 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Appellation: | Sancerre |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy |
| Winemaker: | Julie Guiard |
| Soil: | Limestone |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch