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2023 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu
Sancerre undoubtedly represents one of the world’s best areas for growing Sauvignon Blanc, but even here, site plays paramount importance. The sleepy town, just west of the Loire River, is surrounded by gently rolling hills, with tidy vineyard rows covering every conceivable surface save the occasional hilltop village.
However, not all vineyards are created equal: differences in exposure, slope, and altitude—along with minor variations in soil type—give drastically distinct wines from one plot to the next. The Neveu family is fortunate to own land in the Clos des Bouffants, an unusually steep parcel with a very poor, thin soil composed of rocky limestone. Facing due south, the Sauvignon here receives generous sunshine to produce an ample, concentrated wine.
True to its terroir, it possesses striking nerve and minerality that underscore the mouthfilling citrus flavors. This is serious Sancerre made by a family whose roots in the region date back to the twelfth century.
For an exquisite pairing, try Chris Lee’s recipe for Dungeness crab with linguine.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
Appellation: | Sancerre |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Domaine Roger Neveu |
Winemaker: | Éric & Jean-Philippe Neveu |
Vineyard: | 20 years average, 18 ha |
Soil: | Limestone |
Aging: | Wine aged for 3 months before first racking, aged for 8 to 12 months in total |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
More from this Producer or Region

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2022 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
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2024 Sancerre
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Textbook Sancerre: bright and citrusy, with a clean, stony finish.

2024 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
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Delicate, precise, and succulent at the same time, this beautiful blanc will pair well with fresh seafood and light summer salads and pastas.

2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
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The new vintage shows great freshness and brightness, making me think of tart berries picked in the forest just a touch below full ripeness.

2020 Saumur Champigny “La Marginale”
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Germain’s reds are grand examples of the heights biodynamic wines can achieve.

2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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A lovely combination of Grolleau Noir and Cabernet Franc, there seems to be a synergistic effect elevating both grapes to create a juicy, spicy, refreshing whole.

2023 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
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From a small but mighty appellation boasting an impressive soil loaded with fossilized oyster shells. Peachy, finely textured, and pleasantly verdant.

2024 Sancerre Rosé
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Sancerre Rosé is made from Pinot Noir grown in Kimmeridgian limestone soil, and the Neveu family’s interpretation is fine, floral, crisp, and bone-dry.

2024 Chardonnay
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September Adventures Club ~ Some wines deliver well beyond expectations—this is one of them.

About The Producer
Domaine Roger Neveu
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2018 Saumur Blanc “Le Clos du Moulin”
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2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
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2020 Saumur Champigny “Outre Terre”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2024 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Racines”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2022 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
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2022 Chinon Blanc
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2023 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
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2018 Saumur Blanc “Le Clos du Moulin”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2020 Saumur Champigny “Outre Terre”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2024 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Racines”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2022 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2022 Chinon Blanc
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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