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2023 Südtirol Eisacktaler Grüner Veltliner
Manni Nössing
Less than an hour from the Italy-Austria border, amid a terrain you might mistake for the setting of The Sound of Music, Manni Nössing cultivates a few hectares of grapes that have historical importance in both countries. While he dabbled in red varieties a few decades ago, Manni ultimately realized that this particular sliver of Alto Adige—a high-elevation valley called Eisacktaler in German and Valle Isarco in Italian—is ideal for white wine. His south-facing vineyards receive an abundance of sun, but Manni combines the mountains’ cooler temperatures and frequent winds with shade-bolstering practices in the vines to offset the solar impact as much as possible.
“My grapes are happy in the shade,” he says. “They are unhappy sitting in the sun all day.” In the cellar, Manni passes his Grüner Veltliner through both stainless steel vats and acacia barrels, the latter of which imparts a little more texture and body to a bianco that is otherwise as chiseled as the Dolomite peaks in the distance. Evoking Meyer lemon, pear, and jasmine, this northern Italian white is a match made in heaven for raw oysters, a grilled, lemony cod, sushi, or shrimp tacos.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Grüner Veltliner |
| Appellation: | Alto Adige – Valle Isarco |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Alto Adige |
| Producer: | Manni Nössing |
| Vineyard: | 2-15 years, 1.2 ha |
| Soil: | Sandy, Granite |
| Aging: | Temperature-controlled fermentation 50% in stainless steel vats, 50% in 30-hL, 5-year-old acacia botti lasts about 10-12 days |
| Farming: | Sustainable |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2021 Alto Adige Pinot Nero “Filari di Mazon”
Italy | Alto Adige
This inviting Pinot Nero showcases the softer qualities of the variety when grown in a cool climate. Its unique perfume is like a breath of Alpine air and fragrant bergamot black tea.
2019 Alto Adige Merlot-Cabernet Franc
Italy | Alto Adige
Merlot and Cabernet Franc born from such high altitudes display classic cedar, graphite, and black cherry notes, but with smooth, velvety tannins that bely the bottle’s youthful age.
2017 Alto Adige Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon “Iugum”
Italy | Alto Adige
Notes of Cassis, black cherries, and espresso draw you into the glass and keep you coming back to decipher what makes this cuvée and terroir so special.
2021 Alto Adige Sauvignon “Voglar”
Italy | Alto Adige
The uncommon location and treatment capture a different face of this very familiar variety, deep and mouth-filling yet carrying a bracing jolt of limey acidity.
2022 Südtirol Eisacktaler Riesling
Italy | Alto Adige
Crisp and lean with mouthwatering minerality, Nössing’s Riesling is one of great finesse and precision.
2021 Lagrein Riserva “Di Ora in Ora”
Italy | Alto Adige
The juice is black as can be, emanating a vivid aroma of wild berries that wakens the senses.
2023 Südtirol Eisacktaler Kerner
Italy | Alto Adige
No lack of minerality in this perfumed white from the Italy-Austria border.
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About The Producer
Manni Nössing
About The Region
Alto Adige
In the heart of the Dolomites, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine region. Having changed hands multiples times in its history between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire (it shares a border with Austria), it boasts strong Germanic influence on its culture, language, cuisine, as well as its wines.
The mountainous geography is the principal determinant of local winemaking styles, with the high-altitude vineyards and cool Alpine climate favoring primarily crisp, racy, aromatic whites from varieties like Kerner, Sauvignon, Müller Thurgau, and Grüner Veltliner. A Mediterranean influence on climate is channeled north up the valley until Bolzano, permitting the cultivation of certain reds as well, among which Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, and Merlot fare best.
Small growers who once sold fruit to the area’s multiple co-ops are now increasingly bottling their own wines. The arrival of many quality-oriented artisans on the scene caught our eye years ago, and we now count three estates from Südtirol, as it is also known, in our portfolio. These high-acid mountain wines make for a beautifully invigorating aperitivo with thinly sliced speck, a local specialty.
More from Alto Adige or Italy
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2019 Alto Adige Merlot-Cabernet Franc
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2020 Spumante Ancestrale
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2019 Alto Adige Merlot-Cabernet Franc
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2018 Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Giuseppe Quintarelli Italy | Veneto
2021 Lagrein Riserva “Di Ora in Ora”
Ferruccio Carlotto Italy | Alto Adige
2021 Alto Adige Pinot Nero “Filari di Mazon”
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2022 Pinot Nero “Ronco Pitotti”
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli
2021 Alto Adige Sauvignon “Voglar”
Peter Dipoli Italy | Alto Adige
2022 Südtirol Eisacktaler Riesling
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2019 Chianti Classico Riserva “Terrazze”
Castagnoli Italy | Tuscany
2017 Alto Adige Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon “Iugum”
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2023 Südtirol Eisacktaler Kerner
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236