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A Crowd-Pleasing Chardonnay Since 1988
A Crowd-Pleasing Chardonnay Since 1988
by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf
2023 Mâcon-Villages
2023 Mâcon-Villages



Winemaker Nicolas Roux
Henri Perrusset France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Villages
After sending us dozens of vintages of wonderful white Burgundy following that fateful truck-stop encounter with Kermit back in the late 1980s, Henri Perrusset has now taken a well-earned retirement. The first time I tasted one of Henri’s Mâcon-Villages, I was amazed by the balance of unadorned country charm and finesse—not to mention the fantastic value. Over the last few years, his successor, Nicolas Roux, has taken up the mantle seamlessly while doing everything in his power, in this sunnier corner of Burgundy, to imbue his wines with even just a little more acidity and liveliness. “The objective,” Nicolas recently told me, “is to achieve the best possible balance between freshness and roundness.” Aged eight months on the lees in stainless steel, this Mâcon-Villages continues to deliver that admirable balance of fresh fruit, terroir, and exuberance I first experienced several years ago. Evoking orchard fruit, citrus, and stones, it would pair just as well with a fried shrimp po’ boy as it would with Gary Podesto’s seared scallops.
Click here for Gary Podesto’s scallops recipe.



Winemaker Nicolas Roux
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Mâcon-Villages |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Henri Perrusset |
Winemaker: | Nicolas Roux |
Vineyard: | 15-30 years, 6.5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 14% |
More from this Producer or Region

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2022 Meursault 1er Cru “Genevrières”
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With some age, this will develop into one of the most gorgeous Pinot Noirs to ever grace your glass.

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2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Vaucrains”
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2023 Chablis “Vauprin”
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Vauprin showcases Chardonnay’s ability to produce a wine that is simultaneously both round and taut in this mighty northern Burgundian terroir.
About The Producer
Henri Perrusset
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
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Where the newsletter started

Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch