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2023 Saint-Chinian Rouge “Cebenna”
Les Eminades
People often call Languedoc reds “soulful,” partly, I reckon, because they are deep—one of those delightful hopscotches of language that’s now knit into our professional jargon. By contrast, Patricia and Luc Bettoni have managed to produce a rouge that is almost breezy: silky berries and bright rhubarb that finishes with clean minerality. So simple and easy, there’s hardly more to say about it.
—Allyson Noman
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre |
Appellation: | Saint-Chinian |
Country: | France |
Region: | Languedoc-Roussillon |
Producer: | Les Eminades |
Winemaker: | Patricia & Luc Bettoni |
Vineyard: | 20-60 years old; 2 ha |
Soil: | Red sandstone, Lias limestone, Jurassic limestone |
Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
Les Eminades
In 2002, Luc Bettoni and his wife Patricia purchased twelve hectares of vines, primarily in limestone-rich sites where the grapes would retain good acidity levels despite the baking Mediterranean climate. The young vignerons first replanted five hectares, and then gradually added additional plots over the years, including some very old plantings, seeking out vineyards at higher elevation where grapes ripen later, to preserve freshness and balance. Patricia and Luc now farm thirty small parcels across three communes. They obtained organic certification in 2008 and converted to biodynamics ten years later. Winemaking at Les Eminades is gentle and straightforward, with the goal of expressing the nuances found within Saint-Chinian’s diversity of terroirs through the lens of traditional Languedocien cépages such as Cinsault, Grenache, and Carignan. Fermentations in their small cellar occur spontaneously, and sulfur doses are kept very low to achieve a seductive aromatic and textural quality in the wines. Their cuvées yield a range of expressions of this undervalued appellation, yet they share a striking purity of fruit, intoxicating aromatics, and suave tannins rarely seen this far south.
About The Region
Languedoc-Roussillon
Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.
While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.
Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.
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