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2023 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Diochon


Winemaker Thomas Patenôtre

Sleeping vines at Domaine Diochon

As soon as the weather in New York warmed up a few weeks ago, I stepped out in my backyard for the first time in months. Signs of neglect were everywhere: the ground was covered in dead leaves, and my terracotta pots, once lush with herbs, were tipped and barren. I reached for a rake to start wading through the sea of brown, when a few bright green shoots caught my eye. Thriving below the stale surface of my yard, to my delight, was a determined little family of daffodil sprouts!
Spring comes at you fast, and now there are yellow blossoms everywhere. All I can think about lately is gardening and grilling, and leaving my back door ajar to usher in the fresh air. I want to gather with friends and sip chilled Beaujolais on the sun-soaked patio—with burgers, flank steak, and herby grain salads! Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent, which tends to be deep and dark-fruited, is my Beaujolais of choice for when the weather is still slightly cool. The 2023 is hearty enough for bold flavors, but still silky and low in tannin. It’s an earthy, transitional Gamay to awaken the season.
—Jane Augustine
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Gamay |
Appellation: | Moulin-à-Vent |
Country: | France |
Region: | Beaujolais |
Producer: | Domaine Diochon |
Winemaker: | Thomas Patenôtre |
Vineyard: | 50 - 85 years, 5.05 ha |
Soil: | Pink granite, sandstone, with a manganese-rich subsoil |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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2023 Morgon “Vieilles Vignes”
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If Beaujolais were Burgundy, we might consider Morgon to be Vosne-Romanée, with its haunting perfume and silky texture, the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove.

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An electric lightning bolt of Gamay from a steep, windy hillside.
About The Producer
Domaine Diochon
About The Region
Beaujolais
After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.
The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.
Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.
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2021 Côte de Brouilly
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2023 Beaujolais-Villages
Jean Foillard France | Beaujolais
2023 Régnié “Grain & Granit”
Jean Paul et Charly Thévenet France | Beaujolais
2021 Beaujolais Blanc “Terrain Rouge”
Jean-Paul et Charly Thévenet France | Beaujolais
2022 Fleurie
Guy Breton France | Beaujolais
2022 Régnié
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2023 Côte de Brouilly MAGNUM
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Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236
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