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Irancy: An Exception to the Rule

Irancy: An Exception to the Rule

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

A Featured Selection from the A Perfect Day in Northern Burgundy Sale A Featured Selection from the A Perfect Day in Northern Burgundy Sale

2022 Irancy “La Grande Côte”

2022 Irancy “La Grande Côte”

Benoît Cantin   

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Benoît Cantin    France   |  Burgundy   |  Irancy

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If Burgundy has become France’s most global wine region, along with Bordeaux, drawing wine lovers from every corner of the world, the village of Irancy has proved an exception to the rule, staying off their radar and out of the spotlight. Quiet, even on a beautiful spring day, it feels almost stuck in a former era, which comes with its fair share of advantages. Under no pressure, for instance, to chase any trends, vigneron Benoît Cantin is free to simply let his Pinot Noir faithfully express his incredible Kimmeridgian terroirs on the banks of the Yonne. This river, a tributary of the Seine, which flows through Chablis and past Irancy, helps to moderate the conditions that can otherwise be harsh in this northern Burgundy outpost.
     Hailing from a single vineyard that slopes down toward the Yonne, La Grande Côte enjoys ideal southwestern exposure, its Pinot Noir absorbing as much sunlight as possible to yield this deep, soulful, and vibrant Irancy. Soaring with notes of black cherries and spice, this is a beautiful candidate for your next beef stew, but also a magret de canard, steak frites, or double-layered smashburger with époisses.

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Take 20% OFF this and other wines in the collection, now through the end of the month.

Click to apply: NB20 Valid through Monday, March 2nd
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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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