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2022 Savennières
Château d'Epiré
Paul Bizard, the new generation in charge at this historic Loire Valley property, has wasted no time in showing his youthful energy and ambition since taking over management. His very first step was to initiate an organic conversion, a monumental challenge in a place defined by a stormy oceanic climate and unforgivingly rocky soils. This latest release suggests his work is already paying off, as it stands among the most expressive young Savennières Epiré has bottled. The fleshiness on the palate reflects the Loire’s sunny 2022 summer, yet it finishes dry and chiseled as ever, with lingering notes of acacia blossom and stone.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
| Appellation: | Savennières |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Winemaker: | Paul Bizard |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1965-2013 (average 35 years old), 8.5 ha |
| Soil: | Schist |
| Aging: | Juice rests for 24 hours before being racked into stainless steel cuves for fermentation to begin |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
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2022 Chinon “Cuvée Terroir”
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2023 Sancerre “Racines”
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2024 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
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2021 Saumur Champigny “La Marginale”
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2024 Cheverny
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch