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2021 Val de Loire Blanc “Cirrus”

Éric Chevalier
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Fié Gris (also known as Sauvignon Gris), the rare and more herbaceous relative of Sauvignon Blanc, finds a happy expression in Eric Chevalier’s ocean-neighboring vineyards of the Pays Nantais. His Cirrus bottling takes a playful approach to the variety with a skin maceration that teases out depth to its aromatic qualities: fresh guava and (not to be overly-specific, but) the white milky sap from the stem of a young fig. Light tannins and distinct salinity make this a perfect candidate for aperitif hour with classic accompaniments—oil-cured olives, soft cheeses, and anchovies.

Allyson Noman

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2021
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Fié Gris
Appellation: IGP Val de Loire
Country: France
Region: Loire
Producer: Éric Chevalier
Vineyard: 20 years old
Aging: Raised in both stainless steel and 450L barrels for 18 months
Farming: Organic (certified)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.

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