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2020 Côtes de Provence “Blanc de Blancs”
Clos Saint-Joseph
Roch Sassi farms limestone slopes along the banks of the Var river about thirty minutes north of Nice, where commanding peaks tower over the little village of Villars-sur-Var. Like a cross between Provence and Savoie, the climate—and the wines he produces—marry both Mediterranean and Alpine influences. In Roch's white, a blend of Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon, and Clairette, you'll find lovely sun-ripened fruit and a fleshy texture, true to its southern origins. And yet the precision, freshness, and minerality (and alcohol content!) are more reminiscent of whites from further north, where the Alps exert their cool, crystalline influence on local wines. Roch has a truly unique terroir, and his methods allow it to come through in full. Organic and biodynamic farming, native yeast fermentation, aging in neutral vessels... There is complexity and class, and even the capacity to age and evolve for a few years. This jewel is unlike any Provençal white you'll encounter, and it will leave you salivating and in awe!
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 40% Rolle, 30% Ugni Blanc, 25% Sémillon, 5% Clairette |
Country: | France |
Region: | Provence |
Producer: | Clos Saint-Joseph |
Winemaker: | Roch Sassi |
Vineyard: | 1.7 ha, 5, 30, and 90 years old |
Soil: | Clay, limestone |
Farming: | Biodynamic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12% |
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About The Producer
Clos Saint-Joseph
Roch Sassi of Clos Saint-Joseph (named for his great-grandfather) is the only grower to bottle any wine eked from these incredibly rocky slopes. His wines fall under the Côtes de Provence appellation, even though the much cooler terroir here has little relation to the rest of the AOC. Villars in fact represents an isolated enclave of Côtes de Provence that enjoys a unique microclimate, the dry heat buffered by cold air currents from the surrounding mountains. These conditions allow for full ripening at remarkably low alcohol levels, maintaining lively fruit and bright acidity in the wines.
About The Region
Provence
There is perhaps no region more closely aligned with the history of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. While Kermit began his career as a Burgundy specialist, he soon fell in love with Provence and its wines, notably the legendary Bandols of Domaine Tempier, which he began importing in 1977. He later began living in the area part-time, returning frequently between tasting trips, and today he spends most of his time at his home just outside of Bandol.
Provence is thought to be France’s most ancient wine region, established when Greek settlers landed in the modern-day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The conditions here are ideal for cultivation of the grapevine, with a hot, dry climate and a prevalence of poor, rocky soils, primarily limestone-based, suitable for vines and not much else. The ever-present southern sunshine as well as the mistral, a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease, are crucial elements of Provençal terroir. Wild herbs from the pervasive scrubland, called garrigue, and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean also contribute to the quality and character of wines in all three colors.
Provence is well known for its rosés, but red wines have always held importance here. The very best, such as those from Bandol, possess great depth and a capacity for long-term aging. The white wines, notably those of Cassis, offer weight balanced by a maritime freshness, making them ideal pairings for the local seafood. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, supported mainly by Grenache and Cinsault, while Clairette, Marsanne, Rolle, and Ugni Blanc are the region’s principal white grapes.
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2022 Bouches-du-Rhône Blanc “Baume Noire”
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2023 Bandol Blanc
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2016 Bandol Rouge
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2021 Bandol Rouge
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2019 Bandol Rouge “Saint Ferréol”
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2020 Alpilles Rouge “Amethyste”
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Where the newsletter started

Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch