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2020 Morgon
M. & C. Lapierre
Lapierre was there, flowing out of a barrel, the day of our wedding. Lapierre was there, in the form of a magnum, opened the day each of my daughters was born. Lapierre isthere now, in my cellar, as jeroboams tucked away for said daughters to enjoy on their own special day down the road, whatever and whenever that may be. Lapierre was there—a 1993 vintage—over dinner with Kermit the day I was officially hired. (In fact, I recall us having a good chuckle at how people then insisted natural wines couldn’t age, and just how good that wine was, already thirteen years old.) Lapierre was there, countless bottles opened on countless evenings of joy and festivity among friends and family. And Lapierre was there, too, just days ago, a bottle opened in solace to honor a friend who passed away much too young. What I call simply “Lapierre” is more specifically the Lapierre family’s main Morgon cuvée, which is, without a doubt, the most important and inspiring wine I’ve ever found in my glass. I can say with great certainty that I am not the only one—many other people can rattle off their own “Lapierre list” of memories and occasions.
I can also say that without the work, patience, guidance, and influence of Marcel Lapierre, the wine world would be a much different place today, and many wines we enjoy now would simply not exist. The 2020 vintage is the tenth anniversary of the passing of Marcel, he himself gone too young, just as the last grapes of the 2010 harvest were coming in. Since that day, two of his children, Mathieu and Camille, have stepped up. They clearly have the same generosity, the same twinkle in the eye, and the same spirit of questioning, experimenting, and constantly improving that their father had. They continue to provide us all with Morgon that is just as important, impressive, and fun to drink as it ever was. The 2020 is warm, inviting, exceptionally balanced, and delicious by the boatload. The timeless, refined label that has always graced this bottle is the perfect reflection of the elegance inside. So, enjoy, and here’s hoping the 2020 adds a special memory to your own Lapierre list.
—Chris Santini
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2020 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Gamay |
| Appellation: | Morgon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Beaujolais |
| Producer: | M. & C. Lapierre |
| Winemaker: | Mathieu & Camille Lapierre |
| Vineyard: | 60 yrs, 10 ha |
| Soil: | Granitic Gravel |
| Aging: | Wines aged on fine lees in old Burgundy barrels |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
M. & C. Lapierre
Little would we know that when Marcel Lapierre took over the family domaine from his father in 1973, he was on the road to becoming a legend. Following the example of traditionalist Jules Chauvet, Marcel and three other local vignerons Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Guy Breton, soon hoisted the flag of Chauvet’s back-to-nature movement. Kermit dubbed this clan the Gang of Four, and the name has stuck ever since. The Gang called for a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification. Sadly, the 2010 vintage was Marcel’s last. His children, Mathieu and Camille continue the great work that their father pioneered, introducing biodynamic vineyard practices and ensuring that Marcel's legacy lives on.
About The Region
Beaujolais
After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.
The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.
Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch