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2020 Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro
Fattoria Moretto

Fabio Altariva of Fattoria Moretto
Have a whiff of this attractively frothy, deep purple beverage: does any other wine come close to matching its vivid scent? The three-dimensional fragrance leaps from the glass, hinting at freshly pressed grapes, wild mulberries, and crushed violets.
Produced from organically farmed hillside vineyards just outside of Modena, Moretto’s Grasparossa is made for the notoriously rich cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, arguably the home of Italy’s finest meats and cheeses. The bone-dry finish features bracing acidity and chalky tannins, designed to cut through the fat of a mortadella sandwich or chunks of aged Parmigiano. You can’t go wrong pairing this sparkling rosso with virtually any dish from Emilian cuisine or a simple margherita pizza, but it also marries wonderfully with barbecue slathered in smoky sauce and carnitas seasoned with a bit of spice.
Serve it cool and plan smartly—at just 11.5% alcohol, a single bottle has been known to disappear before one’s thirst has been fully quenched.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Lambrusco Grasparossa |
Appellation: | Emilia-Romagna |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Emilia-Romagna |
Producer: | Fattoria Moretto |
Winemaker: | Altariva Family |
Vineyard: | Vines planted in 1997, 2002, 2007, 4.6 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | Aged in stainless steel |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 11.5% |
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About The Producer
Fattoria Moretto
About The Region
Emilia-Romagna
Primarily dominated by the expansive plains of the Po Valley, Emilia-Romagna—a diagonal band stretching from Piacenza in the north all the way to Rimini in the southeast—also features a long span of Apennine Mountains and foothills, at the base of which lie its major cities such as Parma, Modena, and Bologna along the historic Via Emilia. While the flatlands are home to some viticulture, the Apennines provide elevation and ventilation in contrast with the hot, humid, stagnant valley below, in addition to poor, well-draining soils favorable to the production of more serious wines.
Given the rich local cuisine that relies heavily on lard, cheese, and fatty meats like pork, Emilia-Romagna is first and foremost a land of fizzy wines. These light frizzanti have the acidity to cut through fat along with a palate-cleansing sparkle. Most important is the indigenous red Lambrusco, a family of grapes whose wines brilliantly complement flavorful dishes such as tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini al brodo, or simple antipasti of local meats and cheeses like prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, and parmigiano reggiano (if you’re lucky, drizzled with traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena).
While Lambrusco’s image suffered in the past because of mass-produced sweet versions, small producers today are crafting traditional, terroir-driven dry wines that are absolutely mouth-watering. These jovial, food-friendly quaffers are right at home in the KLWM portfolio.
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Where the newsletter started

Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch