Notify me
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Fred Lailler’s Clisson is front-loaded with flavor. The 2020 vintage was pretty toasty by Loire standards, with grapes easily reaching full ripeness. Additionally, this vineyard, situated on a sandy granite terroir instead of the region’s usual gabbro and gneiss, gives a rounder expression of the Melon grape. While there is a lot of fruit here, it’s a cool sort of fruit, more apples and pears than the tropical flavors we associate with ripeness in white wines. And it is refreshing, as you’d expect a Muscadet to be. The crisp finish always has you reaching for the next glass.
—Dustin Soiseth
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2020 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Michel Brégeon |
| Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
| Vineyard: | 50 years average, 7.8 ha total |
| Soil: | Granite |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 12% |
More from this Producer or Region
2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
France | Loire
When you smell it, keep in mind that no other wine, besides a Melon de Bourgogne grown in the gabbro soil of Gorges, could possibly smell like this one does.
2024 Gros-Plant du Pays Nantais
France | Loire
This racy wine is a perfect match for all types of crustaceans as well all by itself on a sunny afternoon.
2021 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
France | Loire
Even though all of the wines hail from Chinon, the soil, elevation, and exposition all combine to make Le Clos Guillot their cuvée with the most finesse.
2024 Sancerre
France | Loire
Textbook Sancerre: bright and citrusy, with a clean, stony finish.
2021 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This skin-contact wine is redolent of blood orange and hyssop—a perfect apéritif for olives and anchovies.
2020 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This lithe and expressive “orange” wine is an ideal palate-opener with a dry, cleansing finish and a fresh, cooling effect like coastal sage and seaspray.
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
France | Loire
Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees.
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
France | Loire
Classic Muscadet aromas endure, but there’s a complexity here that’s uncommon for an appellation known for its simple oyster wines.
2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
France | Loire
Sourced from 110+ year-old vines, this is hands-down one of the best Cab Francs being made in the Loire Valley today.
2023 Chinon Blanc
France | Loire
A rare Chenin Blanc from the land of Cabernet Franc. Ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes, it has a saline, mineral finish that leaves my palate simultaneously satisfied and begging for more. Try it with fresh trout, grilled whole topped with chimichurri or smoked and tossed into a Niçoise salad.
About The Producer
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2024 Savennières “Cuvée Spéciale”
Château d’Epiré France | Loire
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2024 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2022 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanche
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
Vouvray Brut
Champalou France | Loire
2022 Quincy “Château de Quincy”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2024 Savennières “Cuvée Spéciale”
Château d’Epiré France | Loire
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2024 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2022 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanche
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
Vouvray Brut
Champalou France | Loire
2022 Quincy “Château de Quincy”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.