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2019 Riviera Ligure Vino Bianco “Antea”
Tenuta AnfossoIn February of 1887, a violent earthquake shook Liguria. In the wine village of Soldano, a massive landslide triggered by the tremor brought half of the terraced Poggio Pini vineyard crumbling down the steep hillside, reducing decades of hard work to a mere pile of rubble. The lower half, however, remained intact, its head-trained Rossese Bianco oblivious to the devastation all around. These vines had somehow resisted the phylloxera epidemic just years prior, so it would take more than a natural disaster to uproot this piece of Ligurian history.
“When my grandfather was a kid, the vines were already ancient,” says Alessandro Anfosso, estimating the surviving Rossese Bianco to be at least 150 years old. From thick, ungrafted trunks of this nearly extinct variety, Alessandro crafts a white wine similar to what his grandfather would have made. After four days fermenting on the skins, it is transferred to acacia casks, where it rests until an unfiltered bottling. Savor this richly textured, deeply flavored nugget of local tradition with mushroom tagliatelle, sheep’s milk cheeses, a spinach frittata, or the Ligurian antipasto torta verde.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2019 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Rossese Bianco |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Liguria |
Producer: | Tenuta Anfosso |
Winemaker: | Alessandro Anfosso |
Vineyard: | 0.25 ha, > 150 years old average |
Soil: | Flysch |
Aging: | Aged in 500 L acacia barrels for 10 to 11 months before bottling |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Tenuta Anfosso
In the hills of western Liguria you’ll find Tenuta Anfosso, located in the town of Soldano, and the growing area (or DOC) known as Rossese di Dolceacqua. The grape grown here is the same Rossese as is planted throughout Liguria, but the terroir of Dolceacqua takes the grape to soaring new heights. The wines are reminiscent of Côte-Rôtie, with their combination of floral and roasted/bacon fat aromas and silky mid-palate with stoniness on the finish. There is a level of concentration, structure, spice, and minerality that the more fruit-driven Rossese from further east in Liguria does not possess.
About The Region
Liguria
A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.
Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.
The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.
While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312