2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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I often wonder why more vignerons don’t experiment with the Savoyard grape Jacquère, especially in colder regions. Here’s a grape that thrives on steep slopes, is hardy enough to survive freezing winters, and gives aromatic white wines as bracing as a glacier-fed stream. Michel Quenard’s Vieilles Vignes bottling, from seventy-year-old vines, has a dazzling floral aroma, like the first flowers of spring pushing up through the last snow of winter.
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
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