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2018 Chassagne-Montrachet

Bruno Colin

We often talk about Chablis’ seductive “oyster shell” or “sea air” quality, but that appellation isn’t the only place in Burgundy where you can find this enchanting aroma in Chardonnay. You can also find it in a cluster of villages, including Chassagne-Montrachet, in the Côte de Beaune, where fourth-generation Bruno Colin farms some of the most coveted parcels in the entire region. This cuvée is a blend of nine lieux-dits from around Chassagne-Montrachet, although, when you taste it, you might easily mistake the class for that of a premier cru. The wine’s faint hint of the sea makes me yearn for grilled lobster or trout amandine.

Tom Wolf

Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2018
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Chassagne-Montrachet
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Bruno Colin
Winemaker: Bruno Colin
Vineyard: Average 25 years, .81 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13%

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About Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312

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