2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Made from old Chardonnay grown organically on rocky vineyards loaded with marine fossils, Costal’s Vaillons displays an intensity not commonly associated with this typically delicate, floral premier cru. Uncorking a bottle today offers a glimpse at the magic of aged Chablis: it is rich—unctuous, even—yet remains incredibly dynamic, with plenty of lip-smacking acidity. Currently at its peak, it offers a smoky, lightly honeyed bouquet along with a trademark suggestion of salted butter that only perfectly mature Chablis can provide.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Chablis |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Domaine Costal |
Winemaker: | Gilles & Romain Collet |
Vineyard: | 30 years, 9.6 ha |
Soil: | Kimmeridgian Limestone |
Aging: | After racking, wine goes through malolactic fermentation in 1/3 stainless tank, 1/3 neutral barrel (228 L), and 1/3 used demi-muid barrel (600 L) |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Henri Costal France | Burgundy | Chablis
Henri Costal France | Burgundy | Chablis
Henri Costal France | Burgundy | Chablis
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy | Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy | Saint-Romain
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
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Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Villages
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy | Volnay
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
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Domaine Lavantureux France | Burgundy | Chablis
Henri Perrusset France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Villages
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312
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