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2016 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine DiochonAs the price of land in Burgundy shoots through the roof, Burgundians are buying up acreage at a record pace in the Beaujolais—and, nine out of ten times, in Moulin-à-Vent in particular. No surprise that they call this the most “Burgundian” of the Cru Beaujolais.
It is intense, driven, and full of muscle, with an enticing aura of wild berries that provides the deliciousness we crave notwithstanding its firm spine.
Diminished yields due to a devastating hailstorm in the spring of 2016 significantly concentrated the surviving fruit. Picture all the might of a full crop channeled into less than half the grapes—that’s a seriously boiled-down version of all the structure and minerality this wine typically delivers. It is intense, driven, and full of muscle, with an enticing aura of wild berries that provides the deliciousness we crave notwithstanding its firm spine. Drink it now and through the ’20s.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2016 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Gamay |
Appellation: | Moulin-à-Vent |
Country: | France |
Region: | Beaujolais |
Producer: | Domaine Diochon |
Winemaker: | Thomas Patenôtre |
Vineyard: | 50 - 85 years, 5.05 ha |
Soil: | Pink Granite, sandstone, with a manganese-rich sub-soil |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Diochon
About The Region
Beaujolais
After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.
The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.
Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117