October 2017—Our 45th Anniversary!
Though Alsace is best known for its stunning varietal wines, the Edelzwicker is a notable exception. These “noble blends” may contain any combination of the region’s numerous permitted white grape varieties—in this case, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Chasselas, and Riesling make up the mix. Unlike many wines from nearby Germany, which often have a touch of residual sweetness, Alsace prides itself on its dry wines, and here is a great example. Delicate, floral, and highly aromatic, Félix Meyer’s Edelzwicker is an insider’s ticket to the wonders of Alsace at bargain cost. It is above all a vin de plaisir, offering abundant fruit and freshness with a frisky, stony finish that makes it incredibly versatile with food. Traditional Alsatian cuisine is an obvious match, but the possibilities are endless: salads, charcuterie, goat cheese, and Southeast Asian dishes all have a place alongside this Edelzwicker. Its capacity to quench one’s thirst and charm the senses makes the one-liter bottle all the more logical. –Anthony Lynch
Félix Meyer is a rising star in Alsace and has an evident instinct for his craft. Since taking over in the family domaine 1992, Félix has already left his own mark, modernizing equipment in the winery, developing export sales, and now expanding the family’s holdings in many of Alsace’s great vineyard sites, including several grand crus. It’s all about the details at Meyer-Fonné, with an emphasis on tradition and respect for terroir. The winery and family home is in the village of Katzenthal, known for its distinctive granite soils. Racy and elegant, his wines are difficult to resist young but have all the right qualities for the cellar. For aromatic and textural seductiveness, no one in Alsace can top Meyer-Fonné.
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch