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The northernmost village in Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits is by no means its most esteemed. Marsannay, which has the distinction of being the only Burgundian appellation to produce wines in all three colors, does not share the prestige of Gevrey or Vosne to the south. But to assume that Marsannay cannot produce great wines would be a huge mistake: on the contrary, its terroir offers serious potential, and wines from top growers provide excellent value—a rarity today in Burgundy. Régis Bouvier owns land in some of Marsannay’s top parcels, including Les Longeroies, where his oldest vines are situated. This vineyard yields deep, powerful wines with chewy tannins and hints of wild berries, game, and smoke. A Marsannay like this, from a superb year like 2015, offers loads of pleasure in its youth, but will also age and improve for at least fifteen years.
|Vineyard:||50 years, 1.82 ha|
|Aging:||Aged in barrel for 12-16 months, 30% new oak|
Comtesse de Chérisey France | Burgundy | Puligny-Montrachet
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171