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2015 Brouilly “Reverdon”

Château Thivin

2015 Brouilly “Reverdon” Château Thivin - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
Thivin’s Brouilly is no ordinary Brouilly. Much like in Crozes-Hermitage, knowing exactly where the vines are located is key to interpreting potential in Brouilly. Reverdon is a lieu-dit on the pink granite lower slopes of the Côte de Brouilly—a far cry from the clay plains below where much of the Brouilly produced is grown. This terroir is more similar to top-flight Fleurie. (As such, a little-known fact is that its aging potential is roughly equal to the domaine’s storied Côte de Brouilly.) Precision, soaring floral aromatics, finely etched tannins, a ripe core of dense fruit, and a granitic crunch on the back end are the hallmarks of this momentous cuvée from the Geoffray family of Thivin.—Dixon Brooke
$24.00
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Gamay
Appellation: Brouilly
Country: France
Region: Beaujolais
Winemaker: Claude Geoffray
Vineyard: 45 years, 7 ha
Soil: Pink granite, sand
Aging: Raised in stainless steel cuves before bottling
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13%

More from this Producer or Region

About Beaujolais

After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.

The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.

Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.

More from Beaujolais or France

2016 Côte de Brouilly

Château Thivin  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Côte de Brouilly

$27.00

2016 Brouilly “Reverdon”

Château Thivin  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Brouilly

$25.00

2011 Beaujolais “Cuvée 1512”

Domaine Dupeuble  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Beaujolais

$35.00

2007 Côte-de-Brouilly

Nicole Chanrion  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Côte-de-Brouilly

$35.00

2016 Fleurie “Les Moriers”

Domaine Chignard  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Fleurie

$26.00

2017 Beaujolais Nouveau

Domaine Dupeuble  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Beaujolais

$17.50

2016 Beaujolais-Villages “Marylou”

Guy Breton  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Beaujolais-Villages

$24.00

2016 Beaujolais

Domaine Dupeuble  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Beaujolais

$14.95

2016 Juliénas “Beauvernay”

Domaine Chignard  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Juliénas

$25.00

2016 Côte-de-Brouilly

Nicole Chanrion  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Côte-de-Brouilly

$22.00

2016 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes”

Domaine Diochon  France  |  Beaujolais  |  Moulin-à-Vent

$24.00

2016 Riesling Réserve

Meyer-Fonné  France  |  Alsace  |  Alsace

$25.00

Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.

Inspiring Thirst, page 236

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