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2015 Brouilly “Reverdon”

Château Thivin

2015 Brouilly “Reverdon” Château Thivin - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
Thivin’s Brouilly is no ordinary Brouilly. Much like in Crozes-Hermitage, knowing exactly where the vines are located is key to interpreting potential in Brouilly. Reverdon is a lieu-dit on the pink granite lower slopes of the Côte de Brouilly—a far cry from the clay plains below where much of the Brouilly produced is grown. This terroir is more similar to top-flight Fleurie. (As such, a little-known fact is that its aging potential is roughly equal to the domaine’s storied Côte de Brouilly.) Precision, soaring floral aromatics, finely etched tannins, a ripe core of dense fruit, and a granitic crunch on the back end are the hallmarks of this momentous cuvée from the Geoffray family of Thivin.—Dixon Brooke
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Gamay
Appellation: Brouilly
Country: France
Region: Beaujolais
Winemaker: Claude Geoffray
Vineyard: 45 years, 7 ha
Soil: Pink granite, sand
Aging: Raised in stainless steel cuves before bottling
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13%

More from this Producer or Region

About Beaujolais

After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.

The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.

Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.

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2016 Beaujolais-Villages “Grandes Terres”

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2013 Régnié

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2016 Beaujolais

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2016 Beaujolais Blanc “Clos de Rochebonne”

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Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch

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