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2014 Pouilly-Fuissé “La Croix”

Domaine Robert-Denogent

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé “La Croix” Domaine Robert-Denogent - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
When I was growing up in laid-back 1970s California, Pouilly-Fuissé was the end-all-be-all of French whites among the, admittedly limited, sophisticated (read fancy) wine connoisseurs I knew. Thankfully, it never had a sketchy reputation to overcome like its frumpy American counterpart, the watered-down and now delegitimized “California Chablis” pumped out by the hoseful into vast jugs. Winemaking certainly has improved in the Golden State since then. Still, this Pouilly-Fuissé is what California Chardonnay should aspire to. Round and fleshy, with a chalky mineral backbone and bursting with citric juiciness, this sexy, supple, and voluptuous wine has a heady, velvet texture topped by a bright, vibrant acidity, like a glorious chapeau atop Mae West’s golden curls. It’s the total package. –Jennifer Oakes
$46.00
Vintage: 2014
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Pouilly-Fuissé
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Robert-Denogent
Winemaker: Jean-Jacques Robert
Vineyard: 79 years, 2 ha
Soil: Blue Schist
Aging: Aged 30 months in barrels
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13.5%

More from this Producer or Region

About Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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