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2014 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain

Domaine Robert Chevillon

2014 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Domaine Robert Chevillon - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
It would be a mistake to dismiss this Passetoutgrain as a repository for undesirable Gamay grapes and Pinot Noir leftovers that did not make the cut. At Domaine Chevillon, this humble wine is a thing of beauty: the product of old vines from just outside Nuits-Saint-Georges, it is made with the same loving care as the Chevillons’ noblest premiers crus. The result is a graceful red loaded with energy, spicy complexity, and supple tannins—bargain access to one of Burgundy’s established masters, ready to drink tonight.

Anthony Lynch

Vintage: 2014
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 1/3 Pinot Noir, 2/3 Gamay
Appellation: Bourgogne
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Robert Chevillon
Winemaker: Bertrand and Denis Chevillon
Vineyard: 45 years, .65 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: Bottled after approximately 16 months of aging
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171


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