It’s hard to believe now, but when Kermit introduced American readers to Jules Lassalle’s exquisite Champagnes in 1981, Jules was one of a small group of Davids in a region dominated by Goliaths. In contrast to Champagne’s large houses, vignerons like Jules were committed first and foremost to producing terroir-driven wines from grapes they grew themselves. Allied in their vision of artisanal Champagne and its potential, they dubbed their group the Club Trésors de Champagne—or the “Special Club.” Today, the region abounds with “grower” Champagnes inspired by the vision of those trailblazers, but the Special Club very much lives on, bringing together some of the most ambitious vignerons in Champagne.
      With the goal of taking grower Champagnes to new heights, in the best vintages, the two dozen domaines that form the Special Club put forward their best wines for rigorous blind tasting evaluations by a panel of peers. Each domaine’s Champagne that clears the panel’s high bar earns the right to use the “Special Club” label and distinctive bottle.
      I recently opened a bottle of J. Lassalle’s 2013 Special Club and when I took my first sip, I felt as though I’d stepped into the most fragrant and delicious French bakery during holiday season. Flavors and aromas of brioche, almond croissants, lemon and apple tarts come together in gorgeous harmony. It then finishes with incredible freshness and elegance, evoking ginger, tangerine, as well as a stony minerality. This balance—a trademark of Lassalle’s wines—opens the Special Club up to endless pairing possibilities, from a seafood risotto all the way to a berry tart.
      This was, without a doubt, one of the awe-inspiring wines I tasted in 2024, and as majestic as it is today, it has a long and triumphant life ahead.