None of the whites of this beautiful region show more potential than the local Malvasia Istriana. Hauntingly and uniquely perfumed, with ripe, buttery peach, green almond, and sea salt, the aroma of a well-made version is worth the price of entry—and nowhere is this more aptly demonstrated than at this address. A plump-bodied, smooth white that is also bright and invigorating, Duline’s Chioma has an engaging personality that is wonderful with fresh seafood pasta—shrimp scampi would make a great pairing. I also tried it last night with the NYT artichoke carbonara recipe and it was a perfect fit.
After being thrilled by the 1999 version of this wine out of magnum at Edi Kante’s table in Carso during my first visit to the azienda, I have been waiting patiently ever since for him to create another one. It took thirteen years before the stars aligned once more, and another eight years of bottle age before he deemed it ready for show time. Also made from Istrian Malvasia, Selezione has incredible acidity and salinity that defy its age and promise some fun at table over the coming years with wild crustaceans and mollusks. Gnocchi with lump crabmeat is my recommendation here, although a classic spaghetti alle vongole would work beautifully, too.
I am always looking for medium- to light-bodied red wines with relatively low alcohol for our dinner table and have found that nothing fits the bill quite as well as Duline’s magnificent Schioppettino, my favorite red in Friuli and one of my favorites in all of Italy. Incredibly capricious to grow, and thus not widely planted, Schioppettino can reach great heights of pleasure and expression in the hands of a thoroughly meticulous grower like Lorenzo Mocchiutti at Duline. Expect bright, crunchy forest berries, elegance, freshness, and sneaky structure. I loved Lorenzo’s pairing idea—squid ink pasta with calamari. I’ve also served it with a simple anchovy pasta, and it was a huge hit.
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