To the east, just outside the Baroque stronghold of Ispica, Massimo Padova spearheads an organic farming revolution he started in the 1990s at his estate, Riofavara. Near its supposed birthplace, Nero d’Avola takes on a notably different character. The chalky white soil, rich in calcium, seems to bestow added backbone to the wine. With power and grace, his smoky Sciavè bottling has the depth of flavor to complement a hearty roast or grilled summer vegetables. But here on the coast, the Mediterranean’s bounty of seafood is within arm’s reach. A tuna crudo, or even just a twilight aperitivo, calls for a cold glass of Marzaiolo, Massimo’s zesty, herbal, saline blend of dry Moscato, Grecanico, and Inzolia.