Traveling up the coast, we arrive at Mount Etna, its imposing peak spewing a perpetual steamy breath of volcanic exhaust. High on the mountain’s northern face lies Masseria del Pino, a utopian enclave founded by a couple fed up with city life, inspired by the simple ways of times past. Their palmento has been restored to full functionality, so when the fruit of 120-year-old Nerello vines arrives from the surrounding vineyard, it is foot-tread in lava-stone vats, fermented spontaneously, then pressed off into neutral barrels for over a year of undisturbed refinement. The outcome, I Nove Fratelli, is a luscious, concentrated, sweet-fruited nod to the Etna of yesteryear, when artisans worked their vines and made wine entirely by hand—a relic of the past, perhaps, but one that shimmers with life and force in the glass.