Values of Summer
by Jane Augustine
2022 Langhe Arneis
Italy | Piedmont
In anticipation of a meal and tasting with Marco Tintero himself, my colleagues and I recently twisted our way up and over a harrowing stretch of roughly paved, vineyard-flanked roads to Marco’s bed-and-breakfast in Mango, about thirty kilometers east of Barolo. The property sits atop a deliriously undulating, scenic area of the region known for its sunlit parcels of Moscato and other native grape varieties. As we sat around Marco’s table, I had the most revelatory moment with a freshly cracked bottle of his cold, pear-scented, and delicately floral Langhe Arneis, which couldn’t be a lovelier or more refreshing table wine. Marco served it alongside an insalata bergera, a classic Piemontese salad featuring celery, toasted walnuts, and shaved bits of toma cheese and black truffle, all drizzled with richly flavored olive oil. The textures of these ingredients along with the savory flavors of the nuts, salty cheese, and earthy truffle mingled so beautifully with this delightful bianco that I was reminded a spectacular meal never requires the most expensive wine around.
2021 Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge
France | Southern Rhône
Back in the late seventies, Durban’s flagship fortified Muscat is what originally drew Kermit to the domaine, but once there, he fortuitously discovered their inky, garrigue-scented rouges. This Beaumes-de-Venise is a vigorous blend of Grenache, Syrah, and a splash of Mourvèdre. I’d call it “a wine’s wine”—it is down to earth, will stain your hands and teeth, and is deep and tangy, with peppery cassis fruit and a whiff of warm rosemary. With this bottle, I was inspired to recreate a dish I had recently at a favorite restaurant: roasted beets with summery black cherries, fresh herbs, and a light tahini cream sauce. The elements all came together and recalled the earthiness, juicy dark fruit, and herbal qualities I love so much in this wine.