You may recall us describing the reds of Patrimonio, a northern Corsican appellation and stronghold of the Niellucciu grape, as wild, brawny, rustic, or gamey. They certainly can be—and delightfully so—but this release from Simon Giacometti is a whole different animal, so to speak. It’s made in a remote part of the appellation where sandy granite soils replace the limestone found elsewhere in Patrimonio. Niellucciu from granite tastes juicier, spicier, and less structured than from limestone; on top of that, Simon harvested early to capture plenty of freshness and lower alcohol. Bright red fruit, Corsican herbs, and smooth tannins make this a unique, but no less terroir-driven, Patrimonio that is a real joy to drink right now.

Terrebrune’s location less than two miles from the shoreline, in the direct path of marine breezes, makes it a Bandol unlike the others. You’ll know it before even pulling the cork—the alcohol content of 13.5% is low for a sun-kissed Mourvèdre- and Grenache-based blend, but the terroir here allows the grapes to ripen fully with less sugar accumulation than in more inland areas. For all its gracefulness and light touch, this wine is still packed with nuance, with a sturdy backbone that will allow it to keep drinking wonderfully for decades. It’s sneaky that way, kind of like when you meet Terrebrune proprietor Reynald Delille, a tall, slender, and soft-spoken man, and then learn he is a master of aikido and a highly competitive water skier.

A young vigneron in a relatively uncharted part of the Languedoc west of Nîmes, Ludovic Engelvin has developed his own calculated approach to farming and winemaking rooted in sustainability and low intervention. He counts Dagueneau and Barral as his mentors and has extensive experience as a sommelier in fine dining restaurants, so don’t expect another hipster passing off murky, cidery potions as works of art—no, Ludo idolizes France’s great vins de terroir and strives for the purity and finesse found in the very best of them. This sweetly perfumed blend of Cinsault and Grenache is the perfect introduction to his craft.