Three Islands
by Anthony Lynch
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2022 Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi “Fria”
Italy | Sardinia
Grown on a rocky escarpment in northern Sardinia, this Vermentino is the epitome of a great Mediterranean white. There is fleshy, golden, sun-ripened fruit, an evocative note of wild herbs and flowers drifting through a summer breeze, and the finish is not just saline, but full-on salty, as if a Mediterranean storm surge somehow ended up in the tank. The vines are farmed organically, regularly licked by cleansing winds off the coast, and the wine is fermented spontaneously and bottled unfiltered. You won’t find a more authentic or refreshing expression of island Vermentino than this.
2022 Corse Calvi Rouge “Clos Reginu”
France | Corsica
The Reginu plateau of northwest Corsica sits just fifteen minutes from the Mediterranean, but you wouldn’t know it. These vineyards are surrounded by craggy hills that block access to the sea, while towering Monte Grosso to the south, which often features a dusting of snow, makes the island’s azure beaches feel even more distant. Given the remote location, it’s no wonder why this Niellucciu-dominant blend tastes wild, even by Corsican standards. The hints of smoke, brambles, and singed herbs make this biodynamically grown red a great candidate to open next time you cook a rosemary-rubbed meat over hot coals.
2021 Etna Rosso “Sciare Vive”
Italy | Sicily
This bottling made up mostly of ancient-vine Nerello Mascalese from the northern slopes of Mount Etna is named for the solidified lava flows (sciare) that cut across the landscape like jet-black scars. It captures the elegant, perfumed side of Etna, with bright notes of sour cherry and cracked pepper that come to life when the wine is served slightly cool. Give it some time to breathe if you can, then pour it alongside Sicilian-inspired fare such as ragù-stuffed arancini, grilled tuna steaks, or wood-fired pizza topped with fennel salsiccia.