Costal’s Les Truffières sits at the more generous end of the spectrum, inviting you in with fleshy fruit, a stony core, and ample body. It offers a dreamy pairing for Dungeness crab or grilled shrimp.

Hailing from one of the village’s venerated premiers crus, Costal’s Vaillons blends grapes from different parts of the hillside, which results in an impeccably balanced blanc. Notes of spring flowers, flint, and ripe apples come into focus, making an endlessly fascinating and delicious Chablis.

Blending three parcels of the Lavantureux brothers’ oldest vines, this bottling takes the trademark notes of citrus, chalk, and brine of Chablis and dials up the density and texture. At once concentrated and chiseled, it pairs beautifully with lobster or a lemony baked cod topped with capers.

Years ago, Roland Lavantureux sold two hectares of his very steep Vau de Vey holdings because the land was hard to work and, as a result of its east-facing exposition, didn’t benefit from as much warmth and balanced ripening as it does today. Realizing its newfound potential, his sons recently reacquired one hectare and have done great justice to this cooler, exposed site by drawing out its salinity and minerality. Pair this wine with raw oysters, grilled fish, or roast chicken to bring out Vau de Vey’s remarkable purity and finesse.

Possibly the most extroverted bottling on these pages, the Savary family’s Chablis opens up with notes of ripe orchard fruit that beautifully counterbalance its underlying crisp minerality. Pair it with pretty much anything at your next potluck or picnic.

Chardonnay has long attracted the most love in this outer satellite of Burgundy, but Savary’s Epineuil, made from Pinot Noir grown right down the road from Chablis, shows how pretty and complete reds from these parts can be. Bright and elegant, with notes of cherry and earth, this joins the ranks of our favorite bistro-friendly red Burgundies.