The Best Values of 2023
(So Far)
by Jane Augustine



2021 Custoza “Greoto”
Italy | Veneto
The Piccoli brothers are true farmers. They grow a variety of produce on their remote bit of land in the Veneto—apples, olives, grapes—and we proudly import their wines in every color. Greoto flaunts a blend of several local varieties that age briefly in stainless steel and are bottled in late winter to preserve all the bite, minerality, and zest that northern Italy delivers in spades. It makes for a fitting aperitivo, but pairing it with prosciutto and melon or a pasta al limone really does it justice.
2021 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Rouge
France | Southern Rhône
I love a cool, light-bodied red, but with the arrival of early sunsets and long winter nights, I want to cozy up to one thing: an inky-dark rouge from a rustic terroir. I’m craving wines I can sink my teeth into, ones that deliver all the warmth and character of the sunbaked, shrubby terroir from which they sprang. This Vaucluse rouge, featuring plummy black fruit and surprisingly silky texture, is great with any wintry dish. If you are looking for suggestions, though, try it with flank steak drizzled in chimichurri or a smoky, charred-eggplant ratatouille—perfect for when it’s a bit nippy outside.
2021 Corse Calvi Rouge “Clos Reginu”
France | Corsica
Seeing a Corsican wine on offer in a section devoted to values may be enough to pique your interest, but there’s more to love about Clos Reginu than its price tag. High-toned and velvety, it’s made from the fruit of young, energetic vines, including southern French varieties like Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, as well as local grapes like Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu. The latter two varieties, along with the cool microclimate of Calvi and its proximity to the sea, differentiate this wine from what you might find in mainland France. It’s like looking at a familiar landscape, only wind-swept and a touch overgrown.