Values of the Month
by Allyson Noman
2024 Gambellara Classico “El Gian”
Italy | Veneto
Every quarter, Davide Vignato sends out a newsletter, which I make an enthusiastic attempt to read in its native Italian before turning to the English version for clarity. Davide described the 2024 harvest as having molte piogge (heavy rains) and being impegnativa (challenging) but positiva. After racking the wines, he noted his cellar was filled with tanti profumi fruttati e floreali—many fruity and floral aromas—typical of Garganega. He looked forward to experiencing the vini freschi e salati (fresh and savory wines) that can be produced from Gambellara’s volcanic soil. After tasting this vintage, I can happily confirm all of this is captured in the bottle: a minerality typical of the region, lean but layered with citrus, almond skin, and herby hints of tarragon. It’s a wine with presence that’s also decidedly relaxed, and it carries the year’s triumphs directly into the glass.
2024 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Rouge
France | Southern Rhône
The KLWM staff takes great pleasure in tasting new vintages of our “Selected by” bottles. These wines may not carry the same bragging rights as Burgundy or Bandol, for example, but they are the bottles we drink more regularly. As such, murmurs of excitement and satisfaction echo throughout our offices and retail shop(s!) when the newest shipment of our favorite selection—and we all have a favorite—lands. The Vaucluse rouge happens to be mine, and is produced by the Leydier family of Domaine de Durban, whose Gigondas and Muscat often make appearances at my holiday tables. On weeknights, however, I turn to this easy-drinker full of dark fruit, black olive, and bramble. It’s light enough on its feet to serve with a chill, but still hearty enough to stand up to winter fare.