Cru Beaujolais
by Anthony Lynch
2021 Morgon “Tradition”
France | Beaujolais
For the first time ever, we are offering the Thévenet family’s other Morgon bottling. In contrast to their benchmark old-vine cuvée, this one is made from younger vines—fifty to sixty years “young”—from the climats Douby and Les Charmes. Aged entirely in concrete tanks, it features less concentration than the Morgon we’ve come to know, but more than makes up for that in charm. Ça morgonne, they say in the Beaujolais, meaning there are those irresistible aromas of sour cherry, violets, and sweet spices that define Gamay grown within this cru. It feels weightless on the palate, grounded only by a tingly impression of minerals. Serve it nice and cool for maximum refreshment.
2020 Côte de Brouilly
France | Beaujolais
Just south of Morgon lies the Côte-de-Brouilly, a cru whose imposing slopes and strikingly rocky soil imbue Gamay grapes with power and drive that, in examples like this one, can be more reminiscent of Rhône wines than of your stereotypical dainty Beaujolais. Alex Foillard fashions a Côte-de-Brouilly that strikes a deeper register, saturating the senses with tooth-staining fruit, gritty earth, and just a touch of the good funk. A note of iron lends itself to hearty gulps alongside braised pork shoulder, spice-crusted brisket, or a rare ribeye. You’ll appreciate another take on Beaujolais.