Provençal Gems from North of Nice
by Anthony Lynch
Provençal Gems from North of Nice
by Anthony Lynch
Today I had the Clos Saint-Joseph blanc. I imagine if François Raveneau had made wine there, his blanc would have tasted like Roch’s. What a pure expression of that fabulous terroir. Filtered by the stones.
— Kermit Lynch
Never did I expect my father would liken a humble Provençal white to what is probably his favorite white wine of all time, Raveneau’s Chablis. But this is no ordinary Provençal white, Villars-sur-Var is no ordinary terroir, and Roch Sassi has proven, in the years since we began working with him, his capacities as a truly extraordinary vigneron.
Surrounded by towering peaks, this isolated medieval village in the heart of the Provençal pre-Alps is home to a modest thirty hectares of vines, of which five belong to Roch. His wines share little in common with anything else from the vast Côtes de Provence AOC. First, the Alps exercise a decisive influence on soil and climate, manifested by the abundance of limestone scree and cold air currents tempering the Mediterranean warmth. Second, he espouses a winemaking philosophy diametrically opposed to the commercial direction much of Provence has been guilty of taking in recent times.
Roch’s graceful, vibrant rosé illustrates this in mouthwatering fashion. A rosé defined by terroir, and not by technique?! With that same filtered-through-stones finish, Roch’s blanc echoes what we love about the rosé, while the purity and restraint of his old-vine rouge personify the generosity of Provence viewed through an Alpine lens. His rare Grassenc, a special wine made from a lost heirloom variety, is a delicate, invigorating, absolutely delightful red that is best served chilled. Lastly, with its dense wild fruit and suave floral nuances, the Syrah stands tall among the great cool-climate expressions of the grape. Don’t sleep on Clos Saint-Joseph—it’s a side of Provence rarely seen.
Wines In The Collection
Clos Saint-Joseph France | Provence
Contrary to the usual rough and tannic reds of the far-reaching Côtes de Provence appellation, this is fresh and lively! A gem hidden in the hills.
Clos Saint-Joseph France | Provence
A single barrel was produced of this delicate, peppery, low-alcohol red from a forgotten grape variety. Serve chilled.
France | Provence
Contrary to the usual rough and tannic reds of the far-reaching Côtes de Provence appellation, this is fresh and lively! A gem hidden in the hills.
France | Provence
A single barrel was produced of this delicate, peppery, low-alcohol red from a forgotten grape variety. Serve chilled.
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