A Primer on Vouvray
From Adventures on the Wine Route
by Kermit Lynch
Kermit and René Loyau
© Gail Skoff
© Jimmy Hayes
Céline Champalou
© Jimmy Hayes
Vouvray
© Jimmy Hayes
Catherine, Didier, and Céline
© Champalou
The Champalou cellar
© Gail Skoff
The fact that Vouvray appears in several different guises must render it difficult for the public to comprehend. But once sorted out, the multiple personalities of Vouvray become an attraction, a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.
Kermit and René Loyau
© Gail Skoff
© Jimmy Hayes
Céline Champalou
© Jimmy Hayes
Vouvray
© Jimmy Hayes
Catherine, Didier, and Céline
© Champalou
The Champalou cellar
© Gail Skoff
The fact that Vouvray appears in several different guises must render it difficult for the public to comprehend. But once sorted out, the multiple personalities of Vouvray become an attraction, a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.
A Primer on Vouvray
From Adventures on the Wine Route
by Kermit Lynch
Vouvray’s wine is a product of what we call the Chenin Blanc grape, but I prefer the local name, Pineau de la Loire, and [René] Loyau is of the opinion that the original plantings of Pineau were Pinot, the Chardonnay, imported to Vouvray from Burgundy. Over sixteen centuries or more, the plant evolved ever so slowly as it adapted to Vouvray’s soil and climate. Even today, Loyau says, certain Vouvrays show a striking aromatic kinship to the Chardonnays of the Côte d’Or. I have no opinion beyond finding Loyau’s theory intriguing; however, I can say that the aroma of a good Vouvray is more reminiscent of Meursault (minus the new oak) than it is of the California rendition of Chenin Blanc.
Although produced from this single grape variety, Vouvray yields more than a single type of wine. The fact that Vouvray appears in several different guises must render it difficult for the public to comprehend. But once sorted out, the multiple personalities of Vouvray become an attraction, a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.
Vouvray can be a sparkling wine with a froth like Champagne’s. Such bottles are labeled Vouvray Mousseux.
Or it can offer a more delicate bead, and these are labeled Vouvray Pétillant, whose light sparkle might arise intentionally or not, because in the traditional cold chalk cellars, Vouvray exhibits a natural desire to pétiller, or sparkle. A generous dose of sulfur dioxide will suppress this desire, but that is a bit like whipping a dog for wagging its tail. Instead, one might regard Vouvray’s tendency to pétiller, to revisit the ebullient days of its infancy, as an additional charm. What harm is there in a subtle effervescence, a liveliness on the palate, which also serves to propel and rejuvenate the aroma? For some reason, many tasters seem to be threatened by such a spirited display of energy, so most Vouvray producers resort to all sorts of technical shenanigans to keep their wine still. Vouvray Pétillant has practically disappeared from the marketplace. When I imported a few cases, customers returned it because they thought it was still fermenting. In the Vouvray cellars, however, the pétillant continues to be produced. It is poured for friends and downed with great pleasure.
As for still Vouvrays, they can be dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), or unctuous and botrytized like Sauternes (moelleux). They can be fresh, seductive wines that drink well right out of the barrel, or perfectly developed old masterpieces after several decades.
Below are three selections from the Champalou family that showcase the multiple personalities of Vouvray.
Wines In The Collection
Champalou France | Loire
Made from Chenin Blanc in the Champagne method, this cuvée is the quintessential apéritif sparkling wine, with notes of apple and pear and a fine bead.
Champalou France | Loire
This is Vouvray sec of the cold mountain stream persuasion—bracing, with a clean finish.
Champalou France | Loire
The sweetness—more like a honeyed roundness—is at the front of each sip, then whisked away by the same brisk finish as their Vouvray sec.
France | Loire
Made from Chenin Blanc in the Champagne method, this cuvée is the quintessential apéritif sparkling wine, with notes of apple and pear and a fine bead.
France | Loire
This is Vouvray sec of the cold mountain stream persuasion—bracing, with a clean finish.
France | Loire
The sweetness—more like a honeyed roundness—is at the front of each sip, then whisked away by the same brisk finish as their Vouvray sec.
More Collections
The Alchemy of Red Wine and Braised Beef
In the Adventures Club bulletin from 2011, where I found Chef Chris Lee’s recipe for beef braised with red wine and chocolate, Chris muses that rustic French stews are typically quite soupy and made to be sopped-up with lots of country bread. The French actually have a word for the act of sweeping bread across one’s bowl or plate to capture every last bit…
Snowed in, Tuscan Style
On a Friday afternoon last month, as a winter storm closed in on my mountain town, I made a few last-minute stops to stock up on provisions for what promised to be a snowed-in weekend. The final stop on my checklist was my local butcher, to pick up a cut of pork I’d never considered preparing before Chez Panisse chef Gary Podesto created a recipe he called “Coppa à la Matignon” for our Adventures Club last winter…
Unheated Rivalry
It’s a bit funny to write about two equally fantastic Bandols made by men with quite opposite personalities. I don’t imagine their interpretation of the métier is that different—make wines that express their terroir—but a vigneron always leaves their mark, and that fascinates me…
Closing Ceremony in Verona
From the volcanic Garganegas of Davide Vignato to the lively whites and reds of Corte Gardoni to the majestic reds of Quintarelli, all of these wines would be right at home among the dazzling fireworks and spectacle of the closing ceremony in nearby Verona...
Preserving and Enhancing Aeolian Winemaking Traditions
The magnificent Aeolian Islands are a string of volcanic islands north of Sicily that include Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli (an active volcano), Filicudi, and Alicudi. Capers are a primary local export, particularly from Salina and Lipari—the two largest and most populous of the islands— but Antonino “Nino” Caravaglio is at once the caper champion of the region and its wine maestro. He has built what is unquestionably the most qualitative collection of vineyards and wines in this little slice of Italy…
New Arrivals
Here is a collection of recent arrivals. Every week, we’ll be adding a dozen or more new arrivals, so check back often for your favorite classics or new discoveries!
The Carpe Vinum Collection
An ever-changing offering of wines that are just about to sell out; one last opportunity to seize a range of selections before they disappear from our shelves forever.
50th Anniversary Merchandise
When the esteemed French wine artist Michel Tolmer created beautiful artwork for our 50th anniversary, we knew right away that we had to feature it on a few select items of merch. After spending maybe a little too much time researching the options, we landed on a classy, leather-strap cap, a comfortable t-shirt made from 100% cotton, and a tote made with incredibly sturdy, fair-trade, and organic cotton by a certified B corp that invests in the livelihoods of women and farmers of India, featuring three wine sleeves and two other compartments for all of your other needs!
Recent Wine Club Selections
Our five wine clubs feature our best values from France and Italy as well as complex and cellar-worthy wines.