Countless whites from myriad terroirs and grape varieties provide the depth and complexity to suit our sophisticated palates, all while satisfying our curiosity for new, unique flavors.
With all the great new whites we’ve been finding from places like Corsica and Italy, I find myself reaching for the white Burgundies in my cellar less and less.” These words came directly from the mouth of Kermit Lynch himself, renowned fanatic and longtime collector of the fine Chardonnays from Chablis and the Côte de Beaune. And yet, there may be some truth to this—at first glance, preposterous—statement. With such a diversity of world-class wines emerging from all corners of France and Italy, why limit oneself to just one type? Countless whites from myriad terroirs and grape varieties provide the depth and complexity to suit our sophisticated palates, all while satisfying our curiosity for new, unique flavors. This sampler showcases four of our favorites.
Sampler Includes: 2013 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges” • Domaine Michel Brégeon $40.00
Gorges is one of three crus of Muscadet to earn official recognition in 2011. From a terroir of metamorphic rock known as gabbro, Michel Bregéon crafts his most structured and age-worthy cuvée—a far cry from the average light, early-drinking Muscadet. Aged for over two years on its lees, this is Melon de Bourgogne in its most awesome form, and it will drink well for at least the next fifteen years.
2015 Fiano di Avellino “Vigna della Congregazione” • Villa Diamante $42.00
The cool, high-altitude vineyards of Campania’s interior give a regal expression of one of southern Italy’s great whites. From a pioneering producer in the region, this organically farmed gem hints at smoke, beeswax, minerals, herbs, and exotic fruit, with body and flesh to match.
2013 Atlantique Blanc “Définition” • Domaine de l’Alliance $42.00
This 50/50 blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, vinified by a master artisan of Sauternes, gives one of the more unusual dry Bordeaux whites you’ll encounter. A luxurious nose of guava and petrol gives way to a laser-focused zippy finish. It is another work of art to come out of Daniel Alibrand’s minuscule suburban cellar.
2013 Venezia Giulia Malvasia • Kante $35.00 In Friuli, a local clone of Malvasia known as Malvasia Istriana compellingly translates the region’s stark, stony landscape into bottle. Fresh herbs, zesty citrus, and an exotic suggestion of orange blossom come from the grape, while the Kante touch—long lees aging and an unfiltered bottling—adds a full, creamy texture. The tense, mouth-watering finish—almost salty—is a signature of the windy limestone terroir, beside the Adriatic.
SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $119.00
(a 25% discount)
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.