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2023 Sancerre Rosé
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy
Sancerre
Every year when Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy’s iconic label returns to the Berkeley shop in its medieval lettering and black and white simplicity, my heart—and taste buds—feel a special flutter. The Sancerre blanc and rouge don’t stick around for terribly long, their revered (pun intended) reputations sending cases flying from the stacks. But what always seems to go the fastest is my personal favorite, their fabulous Pinot Noir rosé.
Truth be told, it’s rather rare for our retail staff to receive a specific bottle with such unanimous excitement, especially given the amount of phenomenal rosé that arrives around the same time each year. But amidst all the blush-hued splendor in the shop, there’s something extra delightful about Reverdy’s rendition, bursting with juicy grapefruit and pomelo, as though a paloma decided to slip on a wine disguise. It’s not uncommon to see multiple members of our team snatching up a case (or more!) to satisfy thirsty palates through the lazy, hazy Bay Area summer.
If you’re lucky enough to have fresh, local market purveyors, an understated seasonal crudo—whether fish or vegetable—is a fantastic complement, but if you like rosé alongside pizza (who doesn’t), picnicky fare like salads and sandwiches, or charcuterie and cheeses, it will also be an excellent choice to suit your needs. In fact, there’s hardly anything that comes to mind that wouldn’t be a treat. This is summertime rosé at its finest.
—Allyson Noman
| Wine Type: | Rosé |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Pinot Noir |
| Appellation: | Sancerre |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy |
| Winemaker: | Julie Guiard |
| Vineyard: | 30 years average, 3 ha |
| Soil: | Clay, Kimmeridgian Limestone |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2022 Chinon “Cuvée Terroir”
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Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
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2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
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2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
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2024 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
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2020 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
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2019 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
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2020 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch